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The uppermost member of the capital of a column.
A grinding stone used with oil which is similar to a India Oil Stone.
Type of pallet used in escapements of clocks & watches shaped like a ships anchor.
The pallet cock of a pendulum clock. The term applies to both Anchor and Crown Wheel escapement clocks.
The plate in which the movements back pivots run (the back plate is that which is furthest from the dial)
A large grooved wheel fitted with a handle and mounted on a bracket or stand, fixed to the workbench in a suitable position for driving turning tools or lathes by means of an endless cord. The bench wheel remains fixed in one place while the turning tools are vice-held. The bench-wheel bracket usually has a sliding adjustment for tensioning the cord.
A long tapered metal tube through which air is blown by mouth or bellows to increase the heat of a flame and to direct it on to the point where it is needed when brazing or soldering.
Another term for motion work, the mechanism lying immediately behind the dial outside the fromt plate, transmitting the rotation of the movement to the hands.
The term may also include parts of the striking, calendar or alarm work, if these are external to the plates.
Type of clock fitted with a platform escapement to enable it to be moved without the problems of putting the clock in-beat usually in a gilded brass case with glass panels all round.
The line used to carry the weights of a clock. It is also used to convey the drive from the barrel to the fusee.
Circle on a dial which carries the markings for the hour and minutes .
A device other than a WATCH for indicating or measuring time chiefly consisting of a train of wheels actuated by various devices (as falling weights, a tensed spring, changes in temperature, or electrical impulses), regulated through an escapement in various ways (as by a pendulum, dripping water, a synchronized electrical motor, or the vibrations of atoms), and indicating time most commonly by means of hands moving on a dial often with accompaning bells made to strike at regular intervals (as once each hour) - Webster's Third New International Dictionary, printed 1966.
Wheel where the teeth are at right angles to the plane of the wheel to transmit the power of the clock train through 90 degrees used in verge escapement clocks and carriage clocks.
The part attached to the pallets used to transmit power to the pendulum
A piece which positions and holds another part in position.
Grande sonnerie clocks have a silent strike where both hammers are held clear of the gongs this happens after the hours have been struck and before the quarters are struck.
Time over which the clock will run on one winding .
Having a black finish that looks like ebony wood.
A term used to describe antique watches that are fully crowded with jewels, pearls, etc.
The age of the moon on 1st January in any year; when this is known its age at any subsequent date in the year can be deduced. Since twelve lunations equal 354-36 days and a year equals 365.24 days, the epact increases by a little under eleven days from year to year, with a backward step of 29 1/2 days each time it passes this figure
FAKE dials, by Jon Hanson
A few notes quickly off the top of my head which everyone not familiar with and potential trouble needs to digest:
FAKE dials are a profiteering venture created by money minded dealers and sellers. I am unaware of any dealer that collects and uses any FAKE dials on their personal watches! This venture is strictly a monetary one.
Original is original; FAKE is not original.
Decals have FAKE color and are made up topical subjects glued on usually damaged dials.
Some decals were made to DECEIVE, like the Hamilton Ball brotherhood 18s refired silk screened (?)/decals use on plain (unsigned)18s Hamilton dials.
Added "art work" (hand painted specialities--Masonic, Catholic, portrait photo transfers, etc.) on a dial does not make the dial FAKE. Added paint jobs are usually worn and can be removed with acitone.
Many rare FAKE Swiss dials are recreated dials made to deceive.
Many FAKE dials are creations (sans Ferguson, for example), and thus easier to spot!
Also, a special bonus here. CHECK THE DIAL FEET--most American watch dials have 3 feet; Hamilton ocasionally have 4; Seth Thomas ocasionlly have 2; some Rockford, Elgin hi-grade convertibles, many 12/14s Keystone Howards, the Edward Howard freesprung saphire movements, Manhattans and NY Chronograph Watch Company, the Keystone Howard model 11 RR chronometer, rare early Rome Fssoldts, Auburndale Timers and a few others have snap on dials. The point here is that certain models require centain dials.
BEWARE of GLUED ON DIALS WITH DIAL FEET EITHER CUT OFF OR MISSING FEET. Certain RR dials have removed feet and are glued or placed on movements that have different feet positions, for a few examples being '92 model Walthams, 16s and 18s Elgin RRs in 3/4 plate style.
Some tell tale notes to follow when checking a dial's genuiness, in no order; a dial's thickness and diameter, the edge, it's feet, the back of the dial, dial color, fabric, sinking or stem down (as in double or sunk seconds), lettering--size, type, color and style, company signature, flaws, spelling errors, other atypical characteristics, seconds bits for certain dials placed incorrectly. Always remove the bezel of a watch and view the dial with a glass (edge and surfaces before the seller will/will not allow the dial to be removed). Also, always check the edge where the fancy part ends (circumfrence) on the flat portion of the porcelain for any suspect fancy transferred design or decal which has been added.
Non original dials, switched dials, decal dials and other FAKES harm values and affect the watches credibility. Newbies need to be aware of the traps of a dial on a watch!
Lastly, the dial of a watch is a very important part of the watch movement and intregal part of a watch. Beautiful and correct dials are a delight; FAKE, incorrect, or altered dials from the correct original can be very distracting, as well as be a potential BIG monetary deduction or loss.
The characterization of "Replacement and reproduction Dials" is a deceptive and untrue version and concensus of the real story on FAKE dials, most recently taken from recent nawcc message board comments and discussions; experienced and knowledgeable collectors of pocket watches stay away from such garbage at all costs.
To equate/compare FAKE dials with original parts that might be needed to fix a watch is absurd. I have yet to see any FAKE watch parts such as winding wheels, levers, or whip lash regulator springs! They simply do not exist. This is just another idiotic and ludicrous remark to confuse newbie collectors and confuse same with ridiculous comparisons, definitions and watch terms.
Dials that are not originally as made when movements were finished and sold are OUTRIGHT FAKES; some ignorant bloggers and collectors continue to apologize, make excuses, and "soft shoe" this as a replacement part which, on its face, is absurd. Switching to a FAKE dial harms a watch's value and potentially harms new, unsuspecting collectors. Comparing a FAKE dial to a mainsprind replacement is bordering on the ridiculous, as spoken by one member. FAKE dials add to the lack of credibility of the collector as well as his collection. The notion that companies "ran out" of all factory original porcelain dials is a myth. For example, the Hamilton Watch Company had many dial remainders when they went out of business. Most FAKE dials hardly resemble the original to the educated collector. Educated and knoweldgeable collectors abhor these terrible dials. FAKE dials of recent years were made strictly as a profit center for dealers seeking addition revenue.
Early on metal dials of poor quality (very thin) circulated among parts supply houses. Many of these were conversion dials used to speed up the sale of unwanted hunting case movements which were more costly to sell and which were out of fashion. Remember, we are not talking about original metal dials which are original when movements were finished and sold. These were made and applied to movements by companies such as Hamilton, Elgin, Waltham, Howard, etc., etc. Also, do not confuse refinished original metal dials with replacements. The original are of much superior quality and are generally thicker. For an added cost one could special order a metal dial for a new, in the box Premier Maximus Waltham watch.
There are many types of FAKE dials, many of which were made in Switzerland and sold by American watch parts houses and a particular watch dealer, Manfred Trauring when he was in NYC. These sometimes resemble porcelain which they generally are not (some are a plastic material?). Earlier FAKE metal and painted dials were also made in Switzerland and ordered by watch factories such as Hamilton, later on near this company's demise. These are also of poor quality. Other types include fancy and colored decorator paper decals, mostly made by Roy Ehrhardt were a quick fix and placed over damaged and cracked standard American pocket watch dials to "make ugly watches saleable," in his words. I have seen some that appear better, possibly due to a superior color coping machines. Since Roy stopped this practice and passed away, others are now carrying on this horrible add-on feature. Many are scene and animal topics.
Another "FAKE" add-on creations, prevelent during the 1990s, are the refired and logo added 12 and 16s dials made by a well known Florida dealer. Mostly done on 12s metal (some porcelain) themes include cars, trucks, motorcycles, popular logos such as RR, well known companies, insignas, etc., etc. Floods of these appeared at flea markets and TV shopping networks since the early 1990s. I believe the Florida dealer has stopped making and distributing these "FAKE" dials. During the 1990s there was a flood and overabundance of cheap Elgin and Waltham 12s watches, so this "match" was a natural. The problem here is that ocassionally we see a "Packard" or "Harley Davidson" dial watch offered for sale as VERY RARE which is pure dream land!
There also are some rare American and Swiss pocket watch dials that have been made in Switzerland closely resembling originals; however, hands on comparison makes these dectectible. The porcelain color, ink and size are slightly "off" from the original. Experts can detect these FAKE dials.
Other types of "FAKED UP" dials include silk screened or decals placed on original unsigned or "blank" dials and refired--rare 18s Hamilton Ball dials are one example. An Ohio dealer made up over a dozen of these with the Hamilton Brotherhood RR emblems. These are very dangerous; however, if one looks very closely with a high powered glass some of this "dirty work" can be detected. Again, BEWARE!
Yet another type of dial for which the collector must be on the lookout are re-constructed double sunk dials in which damaged components are re-soldered or re-glued--this is also becoming more commplace as folks become more adventureous. Possibly some "unique" and "creative" examples may exist.
Lastly, there has been a rush for about 15 years plus to have porcelain dials "refinished" (really completely redone) in Great Britian. What this really amounts to is a dial alteration, as the original cracked, damaged or chipped dial is sanded or ground down to the porcelain, patched or refilled with an epoxy, smothed over, repaired and re-stencled (silk screened). These can be easily detected by the naked eye if you look carefully or use a good glass. The problem is that many rare RR dials and a few early American and English watches lose their originality completely as well as the character and fabric of the original. One particular Hamilton RR collection is riddled with these. He wants perfection at all costs, and his "improved" dials were very expensive. While the only harm so far is to the watch, eventually when these will get sold to someone and unsuspecting collectors will get cheated and "taken."
Dials are an important part of a movement/watch. FAKE dials make a good watch look stupid and create an UNORIGINAL WATCH. Excuses for FAKED UP components, refinished movements, and FAKED UP cases only harms the hobby in the long run, hurts "good" research, as well as the damage it could due to ones' wallet. Collectors need to become aware of FAKE POCKET DIALS and learn to recognize them.
Also known as Swag. It is a decoration which is a curved or draped form.
Ornamental work made from wire
Refers to pierced wood or metal used in clock cases to allow the sound to be emitted.
A spring washer, used to connect the cannon pinion to the center wheel while allowing the minute hand to be moved
A tool used in clockmaking. It is used to hold pinions while the leaves are being shaped
The period during which the escape wheel imparts power to the pallets.
Early weight driven 30 hour clock with brass case with 4 posts at the corners and bell at the top, with a verge escapement and in the earliest clocks a balance wheel foliot later with a pendulum made c.1630-1730.
A squirel cage rotor with leaves to transfer power from one arbor to the next.
The mechanism under the dial which keeps the hour and minute hands correctly aligned
Small hollow area concentric with pivot hole in clock plate intended to retain the oil at the pivot.
A clock striking just once each hour as the minute hand passes the hour is described as a passing strike clock.
Metal pieces which hold the plates together the correct distance apart.
This type of escapement consists of a balance, pallets and escape wheel on a flat brass plate, these are most often found on french clocks in particular carriage clocks
Bracket or cock which carries the lower pivot of the crown wheel of a verge movement.
A mechanism which when a cord is pulled repeats the last hour strike or quarters of a seperate chiming train.
A mechanism usually on carriage clocks which when a button is pushed repeats the last hour strike.
Part of the striking mechanism with teeth which are counted by the gathering pallet and a tail which falls on to the snail selecting the number to be struck, invented in1676
The piece which holds the rack in position between strikes until the next tooth is picked up by the gathering pallet and which holds the rack in position when striking is completed
A nut on a pendulum used to raise or lower a pendulum bob-lower is slower
The board on to which a movement is fixed
An ornamental piece fitted to the corner of dials, the designs vary greatly and can help in dating of clocks.
Earlier types of Turret or Tower clocks were not fitted with dials or hands, they just struck the hours. At a latter time figures of men, known as jacks, jacomarts, or striking jacks were added to the outside to strike hours on bells. This dates back to the latter part of the 14th century. During the 15th and 16th centuries, dials and hands were added.
Tempering is the process of reducing the hardness or brittleness of a metal or alloy.
A lathe like device typically used by clockmakers. It had a large hand operated wheel attached to a bracket at the base. From this wheel a length of catgut ran to a smaller pulley. The large wheel would then be hand cranked which turned the work.
A striking clock which sounds the quarters on two tone gongs or bells.
A fine break or crack that shows in a enamelled dial as a thread-like line. This is often invisible when thoroughly and properly cleaned.
Spiral. In relation to horology, it is associated with the "flat" balance spring. when an overcoil is provided, the flat portion of the spring is referred to as the "volute.
A series of flat springs used instead of a coil spring to power a clock movement. attributed to Joseph Ives of Bristol Connecticut
A few minutes before the hour many striking mechanisms lift a warning piece which lifts the rack hook, allowing the rack to fall on to the snail and letting the strike train to run, until the pin on the warning wheel is stopped by the warning piece, at the hour the warning lever drops of the lifting pin on the minute wheel and allows the striking train to run
An iron statue clock with blinking eyes
A striped, straw-colored African wood that is sliced into veneers to cover an unattractive wood; also called zebrano
A section of zinc plate, usually 3" x 2" x 1/4" thick. It is used with diamantine for polishing steel parts.
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